The historic Haute Route via the Great St Bernard is one of the most authentic and demanding variants of the ski traverse from Chamonix to Zermatt. Unlike the classic route via Verbier, it does without road transfers and links the two alpine resorts through an almost continuous sequence of high alpine ski tours. Remote glacier valleys, isolated huts and impressive cols shape this exceptional traverse, which usually takes seven to eight days.
From Argentière, the first stage crosses the Glacier d’Argentière to the Refuge d’Argentière (2771 m). The hut lies amid the imposing glacier world of the Mont Blanc massif and is the starting point for the demanding crossing into Switzerland. The next day, the route leads over the Col du Chardonnet and the Fenêtre de Saleina to the Cabane de Saleinaz, set in seclusion above the glacier of the same name.
A first major highlight is the traverse of the Grand Lui (3509 m). From the Cabane de Saleinaz, the route crosses glaciated terrain and high alpine cols to the south side of the massif. The long descent that follows through the Val Ferret ends in La Fouly, a small mountain village in the Swiss Valais.
From La Fouly, the traverse continues to the Great St Bernard. For centuries, this historic alpine pass at 2469 m has linked the Valais with Italy’s Aosta Valley. The famous hospice, whose history goes back to the 11th century, offers an exceptional place to spend the night and a charming contrast to the high alpine huts of the rest of the route.
Through the mountains south of the Grand Combin, the route continues to the Cabane de Valsorey (3037 m). Here begins one of the most demanding sections of the entire Haute Route: the crossing of the Plateau du Couloir at around 3650 m. The steep, often icy passage usually requires crampons and ice axe. Over the Col du Sonadon and the vast glaciers on the south side of the Grand Combin, you finally reach the Cabane de Chanrion.
Another highlight is the ascent of the Pigne d’Arolla (3796 m), the highest point of this variant. From the Cabane de Chanrion, the demanding climb leads over the Glacier du Brenay to the summit. The view extends across the huge glacier expanses and numerous four-thousanders of the Valais Alps. The descent then leads to the spectacularly located Cabane des Vignettes. Alternatively, the Pigne d’Arolla can be bypassed, reaching the Cabane des Vignettes via the Glacier d’Otemma and the Col de Charmotane. This route is less steep but likewise requires a careful assessment of current glacier, snow and weather conditions.
From the Cabane des Vignettes, the last stage follows the classic Haute Route over the Col de l’Évêque, the Col du Mont Brulé and the Col de Valpelline. After a final col, the Matterhorn comes into view before the long descent across the glaciers above the Zmutt valley leads to Zermatt.
As an alternative finish, you can head for the Cabane de Bertol (3311 m) instead of the Cabane des Vignettes. Spectacularly perched on a rocky spur, the hut is reached by steep ladders and offers impressive views of the surrounding glaciers. From there, the last stage leads over the Tête Blanche (3710 m) and the Stockji glacier to Zermatt. This variant makes for a particularly impressive finish, with superb views of the Dent d’Hérens and the Matterhorn.
The historic route makes the highest demands on fitness, endurance and alpine experience. Several long days, technically demanding crossings and extensive glacier sections call for sound ski technique, experience with rope and crampons and a careful assessment of snow, weather and avalanche conditions. The passages on the Grand Lui, the Plateau du Couloir and the Pigne d’Arolla in particular require favourable conditions.
Anyone wishing to experience the Haute Route as authentically as possible and without motorised transfers will find this variant a particularly impressive challenge. It combines the scenic highlights of the Mont Blanc massif and the Valais Alps with the special experience of a continuous, multi-day ski traverse from Chamonix to Zermatt.